Pattern-drafting device.



H. H. TAYLOR.

PATTERN DRAFTING DEVICE.

APPLICATION FILE-D Nov. 7. 1913.

Patented Feb. 29,1916.

@Wfl/ilmenau 'nm COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH co.. WASHINGTON, n. c.

'unTTEn sTETEs PATENT oEETcE.

HIRAM TAYLOR, OF WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS.

PATTERN-DRAFTING DEVICE.

Application iled November 7, 1913.

To all 'whom t may concern.' l

Be it known that I, HIRAM H. TAYLOR, a citizen of the United States, residing at Worcester, in the county of Vorcester and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Pattern-Drafting Devices, of which the followf ing is a specification.

My invention relates to the drafting of patterns for wearing apparel, and has for its object the provision of improved simple and practical means by which the material for the garment may be accurately cut to conform to the different sizes and proportions as may be necessary. i

A further object of this invention is to provide pattern charts particularlyv adapted to the use to which they are to be put and which shall facilitate the cutting of the gar ment material.

l/Vith these and other objects in View my invention consists in the peculiar construction of a series of pattern charts, consisting of rows of perforations and scales, each` numbered to correspond with the measures taken for the diderent parts for which they are to be used, and fully disclosed in the following detailed description which is to be read in connection with the accompanying drawings and moreparticularly pointed out in the appended claims.

Referring to the drawings in which are shown six charts for coats or waists designatedrespectively as Figures 1, 2, 3, 1l, 5 and 6, F ig. 1 is a plan view of the front chart; F 2 is a similar view of the back chart; Figs. 3 and 4L are views of the opposite sides of the dart chart; Fig. 5 is a plan view of the sleeve chart; Fig. 6 represents a chart for drafting the lines of the neck and armscye and other curves.

Referring to the drawings more particularly by letter, A A designate rows of perforaticns, preferably four in number, set on arcs of elliptic curves. These perforations as shown in Fig. 1 are divergingly disposed and determine the dimension of the front of the neck.

A', Fig. 2, designates a row of perforations set Cn an arc of an elliptic curve, the' Vfunction of said row of perforations being to determine the width of the back and position of the back shoulder line atthe neck. The curved edge A2, Fig. 2, is used to shape the line for the back of the neck,

Specification of Letters Iiatent.

Patented Feb. 29, 1916.

serial No. 799,666.

B lrepresents a chart of form shown in Fig. 6.

B shows the outer edge which is employed to draft the top of the sleeve in a childs garment or in shaping the lines over the hip.

irregular curved B2 shows the'inner edge and is employed to shape the lines of the front of the neck and armscye, and the two curves are used for drafting collars and cuffs for coats and dresses, and in shaping the different curves mine the position of the back of the shouli der. The length and shape of the shoulder line is determined by the use of the graduated scales D, Fig. 1, for the front and D, Fig. 2, for the back. ranged on compound curves, and the back scale D, Fig. 2, is graduated longer than the frcnt scale D, Fig. 1, so that the front portion of the shoulder may be stretched slightly in making, thereby to conform in length to the back, and thus secure in the finished garment a perfectly fitting shoulder.

E, F, G and H, Fig. 1, and E and H', Fig. 2, are rows of graduated perforations set on arcs of elliptic curves, said scales being numbered to correspond with the bust measure.

E, Fig. 1, and E', Fig. 2, denote rows of perforations for use in obtaining the dimension of the bust and the location of the point where the back and front join at the armscye. Y

The row of perforations F, Fig. 1` determines the pcsiticn of the armscye with reference to the chest measure, while the row of perforations G, Fig. 1, locates the depth of the armscye, and in conjunction with the row of perforations G', Fig. l, and the dart chart, Fig. 3, hereinafter to he described, determine the` height and position of the top of the darts. The armscye is shaped by the use of the chart B shown in Fig. 6.

H, Fig. 1 and H', Fig. 2, represent rows of perforations employed to determine the These scales are arpoint where the back and front join lnear I, Fig. l, isa graduated scale, cut-to a.

- certain curve vplacedon'thelback edeeof-the infront, and the graduated scale I, Y,

out' tothe samecurve on the forward edge of the back. `.These twdsealesarenon corr responding portions `of jelliptic c urves ,to enable the position of the waistline to be accuratelydetermined from a given point at "the armscye. "The iigures `on these scales correspond with the under a-inimeasure in inches, and the curved edges vofv the scales are such as to enable the proper shaping of the under, arm lines, or, Vshould a different under arm'line' beydesiredjtlie" dart chart,

Figs.' Sand 74 hereinaftery to be.y described,

n vmaybe used. At'J, Fig. 1, .ongthe front v edge4 of said chart is a graduated A,scale set on a portion of,an elliptic curve,l and numbered to correspond with the length o f front sov measure taken from the neckto'the waistj, 'line. ij, Saidscale and edgevare used tojde- 'I termine'the length. andshapeof the frontpr joining line, making a perfect Frenchj line for'the front of the garment. [The length 'also determinesjthe .position of, the waistline in front@ ,"Ilievfront ofthe waistline fj, is' shaped by the vcompound curved edge; K, "'Fig. 1.

40aVv 'i t'iveen'the` front line andthe first dart. draftingf garments .with the tailor back ""iyLfFig; l, designates a"doujble row `of perforations used to..cletermine the width beproper curves forfthe form seam .are ob- 1 tained byithe use ofthe curved edge shown edge,M, Fig. 2, is used. to shape'vtheline i yforpthe back ofthe armscye. 'The edge N, "Fig.f2,.is used' to locate the center back line, vand is provided with a scaleN,1which ""determines'the length of the back from the neck lineat center of the back, said scale'N and' I, Fig. 1, the portion' M being on an aro 'of an 'elliptic curve. "Thehcurved being numbered' to correspond' with the length of back measure taken fromthe neck to the waistline. "The length also 'deter- Aini'nes'the ,position of the waistline, at'the .l center ofthe back.V which connects with the front portion of the waistline at a position Iindicatedby the scale' I, according tOjthe under arm measure asgheretofore described,

the"line,bei ng drawn by, edge Ycarrying a VscaleO; Fig.' 2. YThisscale of inches :O is rlaeelatilisht angles. ,to the ScalefNtheS@ scales permitting the use ofthe'- squareV .when required. In order to cut the garment to it closely in the back at the Waist line, the. back chart, Fig. 2, has been made wide enough at scale O to allow a dart to be takenfout `between the back and form lines` Figs. 3 and 4, Fig. 4, being the reverse, side off Fig. 3, illustrate the dart chart previously referred to. In the said charts are two rows-of perforations, P and P, which are on small arcs of elliptic curves vand numbered to correspond with the figures on the rowsjof perforations G and G', Fig. l, and

are used Vconnection with the same to locatethe proper position. ofthe top vofthe Y darts in accordancewvith vthe bustvmeasure.

perforations, graduated and sety on. small arcsof elliptic curves,'the functionof which 'is Itoflocate the position ofthe back lines of the first and second darts 'at the waist line,

and in connection with the row of perforagtionsR, hereinafter described, and L', Fig.

1, to take out'the proper amount for the the difference betweenjthe bust and waist measures. [The corresponding perforations in .each of thefourrows of'Q; and Q, are p connected by bars orV guide lines,. each line being numbered according tothe different r darts infront yat the waistline, according to sizes of darts, thus making less' danger of mistakes in drafting thepattern, the perforation nearest the waistline corresponding with" the size of )the darts being used. At R, Fig. 3', is a perforation employed for locating thev position of' the. turn inthe compound curve of thefront line of the second `,dai t', and'at R', Fig. is a row of four perforations connectedby a line, arranged parallel with edge-S2, for locating vthe position ofy the front line `ofthe secondl` dart 'atthe Waistline. The perforation nearest the waistline is used Lin order to give the same 'distancebetween 'the `two darts' forv any length of waistThe' edge S Aof the` dart 'chart'is a compound curve, the. different portions of 'which are employed in shaping the lines of the ydarts and for draftingthe pioper'shape ofthe rcurved `lines overthe hip below the` waistline, andl of the form seam when required for-the French back. lIhe reverse side of edge S, Fig. 4, carries a graduated scale S', for locating the proper position` of the-'dart chart to obtain the correct curve of thel back line of the irst dart.

"Thedart-f chart further carries a scale of inches S2, Whichmay be employed as de'- sired.

The sleeve chart is shown in Fig. 5. The Y,different rowsof perforations being on portions ofelliptic curves, the figures oppositev the perforationsbeing'equal to the Vnumber .of inches in the ,different vmeasures taken.

:The rovvsfof perforations U and*U are e'rn- `ployed to locateV thelines fofjthe under side of the sleeves at --the-a-rm-scye. The rows 'U and U2 locate the lines of the upper side of the sleeve at the armscye, and the three rows together determine the size of the sleeve according to the top-arm measure taken at the armscye. The row U3 is used to determine the highest point in the curve at the top of the sleeve. l

VThe double rows of perforations U* and U5 are used'to locate the lines of the under side of the sleeve at` the elbow, and the rows U4 and UG are employed to locate the lines of the upper side of the sleeve at the elbow, and the three rows together determine the size of the elbow according to the elbow measure. The rows of perforations U1o and U8 are used to locateV the lines of the under side of the sleeve at the hand,`and the rows U7 and U9 locate the lines of the upper side of the sleeve at the hand, and the Vfour rows together determine the size of the sleeve at the hand, according to the hand measure. The concaved curved edge of the sleeve chart is used for shaping the inside lines of the sleeve. The Vscale V and the figures thereon are used to determine the length of the sleeve according to the in-arm measure, taken from the armscye to the bend of the arm opposite the elbow, and thence to the hand. The compound curved form of edge V is used for shaping the lines of the outside of the sleeve. The scale V and the figures thereon are used toy determine the length of the 4outside line of the sleeve according to the out-arm measure taken from the armscye to the elbow, and to the hand.

In drafting the outside lines of the sleeve above the elbow for a stout arm, the chart is inverted to curve the lines the Vopposite way, thereby giving more room for the muscles of the'arm just below the armscye without increasing the size of the sleeveV at the armscye. The compound curved form of edge lV is employed in connection with the perforation made through scale U3, to shape the lines of the top of the sleeve, and the edge W is for drawing the line at the hand.

The rows of perforations X, X and X2,

and the numbers thereon are employed to locate the lines of the sleeve at the armscye when the top-arm measure exceeds 17.

To give a better idea of using the invention the following measures are given: 1, size of neck, 14; 2, length of shoulder, 6; 3, height of shoulder, 2; 4, size of bust, 40; 5, size of waist, 28; 6, length of under-arm, 84; 7, length of back, 15; S, length of front, 15; 9, size of hips, 42; 10, size of top-arm, 16; 11, size of elbow, 12; l2, size of hand, 85; 13, length of out-arm, to elbow, 13%; 14, length of'out-arm, to hand, 24;.15, length or" in-arm, to elbow, 85; 16, lengthV of inarm, to hand, 18. Place the chart, Fig. 1, on a large piece of paper with edge J toward the operator and make a mark or dash at 14 ofscale J. Dot the neck measure,

.the length of shoulder 6 in the row of perforations, height 2, in C, C. Use one-half the bust measure, and dot through perforation 20, in rows E, F, G, G and H. Move the chart to the right on the paper until edge D touches the dot for the neck made through the perforation nearest the left hand edge of the chart and the shoulder dot, and draw a line to the length of shoulder measure 6, by scale D. Now move the chart toward the operator until edge I touches the dots made through rows of perforations E and H, and mark the Vlength of under-arm 871e, by scale I. Move the chart from the operator until edge J touches the neck dot nearest the operator and the dash made at v14 by scale J and draw a line for the front of the garment to the length of front measure 15, on scale J. Move the chart to the left until the corner touches the front line at 15, and the edge K touches the length of under-arm 8g, and draw the waistline between the two points. Dot one-half the bust measure 20 in the row of perforations Il, and remove the chart. This gives the front pattern.

For the back place the chart Fig. 2 on with the edge I toward the operator, put one-half the bust measure 20 in rows of perforations E and H', over dots made at 20 through rows E and H, and dot the length of shoulder 6 in the row of perforations C', the neck measure 14 in row A', and draw a straight line along the edge N. Move the 4chart to the right until edge D touches the dots made through rows of perforations A and C, and draw a line to length of shoulder measure 6, on scale D. Move the chart from the operator until edge M touches the length of shoulder' 6, and the dot made through row of perforations E', and draw a line. between the two points, for the back line of the armscve. Move the chart away until the edge N touches the straight line` and the edge A? touches the dot made through row of perforations A', and draw a line between the two points for the back line of the'neck. Mark the length of back 15, on the straight line. Move the chart to the left until the right angle corner touches the length of back 15, and the edge O touches the length of under-arm 81, and continue the waistline between the two points. Measure i of an inch from the straight line on the waistline, and draw a line from there to the point where the line drawn bv A2 and the straight line intersect, for the back line of the .Oarment, and remove the chart. Shape the lines for the front of the neck and armscye by the edge B2 of chart Fig. 6.

For the size of the dart at the waist take the difference between one-half the bust and waist measures. or 6. Place the chart Fig. 3 on the front draft with the narrow end touching the front line, and straight edge S2 touching dots made through rows of perfora-tions Gr and G', and dot one-half the bust measure 20, in rows Of perforations P and P', for the top of the darts. Turn the dart chart with'edge S toward theoperator, the point touching the dot made through row P, the edge touching the dot made through row L, and draw a line to the waist line, and dot the size of dart 6, in the perforation nearest the waistline of rows Q.. Reverse the chart and place the dash correspond-ing with the size of dart G inthe scale e', Fig. 4 (Fig. 4 being the reverse side of Fig. 3) at the top of the dart, the edge S touching the dot made through row Q and draw a line to the waistline. Place the chart with the point on the curved edge of the wide end touching the dot made through row P', the edge S2 touching the back line of the first dart, and dot in the 'perforation nearest the waistline of row R', in perforation R and in the size of dart G in the perforation nearest the waistline of rows Q. Allow the point to remain at the dot and swing the other end toward the operator until the edge touches the dot made through row G and draw a `line to the waistline. Then move the chart to the left until the point on the narrow end touches the dot made through R, and the curved edge, the top of the dart, and draw a line 'between the two points. Turn the `chart around and place the same point at the saine dot, the curved edge toward the operator and touching the dot made through ow R', and continue the line to the waistlne.

Draft the lines back of the first and sec* ond darts according to the style of garment, vand for a tie'ht garment take out a dart of of an inch between the back and form lines, and of 1%- inches under the arm at the waistline` and nothing at the armscve.

To draft the sleeve. place the chart Fig. 5 vwith the curved end W to the left hand and edge V toward the operatonand dot the topiarmmeasure 16 in' rows ofperforations U. U', U2, the elbowmeasure 12 in rows U4, U5` U", the hand measure 81 in rows U7, Us, U1", and U9. Move the chart toward the operator until 12J- in the scale V touches the dot made through row of perforations U, and the edge touches the dot made through row U2, and draw a line from the left hand end of the scale. Swing the opposite end until it touches the dot made through row YUQ, and continue the line for the outside of the upper side of the sleeve. In the same manner draw a line past the dots made through rows of perforations U. U5, and Us, for the outside of the under side of the sleeve.

, Draw the line for the inside of the upper and underside of the sleeve above the elbow in the same manner.l by placing 81. in scale 1V .atlthe .doit Amadethrough.rovere-l parietal tions U4, the edgeftou'ching the dot made through the row U, and continue the line to the dot made through row VUT for the .upper side of the sleeve'below the elbow.- Swing the chart from theope'rator until it touches the dots made through rows Ut and U10 and draw a line for the underside of the sleeve below the elbow.

Measure the length of the outside of the sleeve by placing the out-arm to elbow' measure 1312 in'scale V at the elbow dot, and 'mark at the left hand end of the scale, and at the out-arm to hand'measure 24'. In the 'same manner, measure the length of the inside of the sleeve, using the in-arin to elbow measure 8:1-, and the-in-'arm to hand measure 18, and measure by scale V. Lo'- ca'te the highest pointof the top ofthe sleeve by placing the perforation corresponding with the'top'arm measure in row U2, at the left hand end of the outside line of the upper side of the sleeve, let edge Vl touch the line belowthe elbow and dot theV top-arm measure 16 in row U3. Draw the line for the top of the'upperside of the sleeve by the curved edge Invert the chart and dra-w the top line of the under side of the sleeve by the same edge. Draft the line at the hand by edge IV.

To draft a sleeve when the top-arm Ineasur'e exceeds 17. Dot through the perforations the same as for the 'regular sleeve using 17 instead of the top-'arm measure in Y rows U, U and U2. Turn' thefchart with the curved end toward the operator Yand place the perforaticns 17 in the rows X,` X Y and X2, over the dots made throughf17 in rows U, U and U2, and dot the top-arm measure, forvexample 9.2, in rows X, X fand X2 and draw the lines above the elbow to these dots, and finish the top Yof the sleeve the same as in size 17. finish below the elbow thesa'nie as the regularV sleeve; i

This invention is an improvement over l. The drafting-= 'device for'apparel pat terns having the diver-ging rows of perfora-V tions, A A at the neck, therows of` perfora# tions lying o n compound curves, C C at the shoulder, the graduated scale, D at the 'shoulder on a compound 'curve,th`e rows of yperfo'rations lying on portions ofk elliptic al1-ves,rrrsefegenaessere@ als bust and armscye, for locating the joiningpoint under the arm and 1n connection with the dart chart for locating-the tops of the darts. the graduated scales set on portions of elliptic curves, I and J, a compound curved edge, K for shaping the waistline, the double row of perforations L, and the curved edge, M all substantially as indicated. y

2. The drafting device for apparel patterns having the row of perforations, A and the curved edge A2 for the back of the neck,

the row of perforations set on a compound curve, C', the graduated scale also set on a compound curve, D for the back shoulder, the rows of perforations lying on portions of elliptic curves, E and H, the graduated scale, I, said rows of perforations E and II curving upward toward the top of the chart from saidscale I', the curved edge, M', the scales of inches, N and O, all substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

3. The drafting device for the darts having rows of perforations P, P', Q and Q, said row of perforations P arranged out of alinement with and below said row of perforations P, said row P passing diagonally through said rows of perforations Q, the rows of perforations Q arranged parallel above said rows Q, the single perforation R, the further row of perfor-ations R arranged Aparallel to said rows Q, and also parallel to the scale edge S2, the curved edge S, the scale thereon and the scale of inches 52, all substantially as specified.

a. rIhe drafting device for sleeve patterns having the series of rows of perforations U, U, U2 and U3 at one end converging toward the elbow, the series of double rows of perforations U4, U5 and UG across the saine at the elbow, the series of rows of perforations U7, U10, Us and U9 at the opposite end also converging toward the elbow, the series of rows of perforations X, X and X2, two above running nearly parallel with and one below running obliquely to the rows at the elbow and converging toward the outside edge of the sleeve chart, the scales V and V arranged on compound curved edges, the curved edge W at the top and the straight edge W at the bottom all substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I afliX my signature in presence of two witnesses.

I-IIRAM H. TAYLOR. Witnesses:

FRED A. WALKER, LIELA E. Co.

Copies of this patent `may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of ratents, Washington, D. C. 

